That's the evocative (and provocative) title of an article by Sr. Joan Roccasalvo, CSJ on the Catholic News Agency website. As you might suspect from the title, it's a beautifully written apology (in the best sense of that term) for the use of Gregorian chant and organ in Catholic liturgy.

Applying the analogy of a vineyard she explains how the old-world technique of correcting the soil by maintaining strict controls and preventing the intrusion of foreign elements in the soil created an unsurpassed product:

The vineyard at Romanée-Conti, not far from Dijon, France, enforces strict rules to protect its special soil against frosts and from any foreign elements that might erode the unique quality of the grapes. When correction of the soil becomes necessary to maintain proper balance, correction other than by virgin soil of the vineyard is prohibited. The wine dressers of Romanée-Conti are convinced that they have all the necessary resources from within the vineyard to make the necessary correction. Experience has taught them that importation of foreign soil has not enriched the vineyard. Instead, it has eroded the soil, compromised the grapes, and, ultimately the wine itself (Joseph Roccasalvo, “Organ Recital”).

In the same way, the Church's solicitude for sacred music at critical points in the past rescued Gregorian chant from being adulterated by secular and profane influences :

Solesmes is the Romanée-Conti of Gregorian chant. It is at the Abbey that the monks have preserved the unsurpassed treasure of three thousand exquisite chants as the precious, forceful bouquet of Pinot noir has been preserved by Romanée-Conti.

In a similar way she makes the case for the use of the organ. Cheers to Sr. Joan R. for this elegant and eloquent article!