While many of you are off to the Colloquium, I have been bouncing around Spain and collecting material for a future article on compositional traditions in the polyphonic Spanish Marian antiphon. Today I am in my final destination for Spain, Granada. I've been very fortunate to get access to all the things I have needed in Barcelona, Valladolid, and Seville, but I was a bit worried about Granada. It has a reputation as being somewhat inaccessible. That is gradually ending in Spain, but it still exists in pockets. Anyway, my main purpose was to pass on the fact that I attended daily Mass in the Capilla Real alongside the Catholic monarchs (really, their tomb is in front of the altar steps). What a thrill. The Mass was nicely done and the priest did his best chant. It was in Spanish, but the organ and the cantor (in the back with the organ) were quite professional. I asked if they ever celebrated the TLM there, and was promptly told "no". I ended my questions there as I wanted to see the manuscript of Luis de Aranda's Regina caeli! I did find out, though, there is are 2 Latin Masses (novus ordo) in the church of St Isidore just down the main street a bit. Spain is so amazing in that there are usually 4-5 big beautiful Catholic churches in each of the cathedral cities within walking distance (as well as monastic chapels). Well, I was able to see and photograph the antiphon, so all is well.
Now on Saturday, I fly to Rome. I would love to hear suggestions about which church to attend on Sunday although I am leaning towards the personal parish that was recently set up. I'll double check the name. Maybe vespers there too.
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